In short: to get green algae off a wooden fence, use lukewarm water, a stiff brush and, if needed, a cleaner made for hardwood. Scrub along the slats and rinse with clean water. Avoid bleach. A thin coat of oil afterwards makes it harder for new algae to take hold.
It is a layer of algae, sometimes with moss, growing where the timber stays damp for long periods. You see it most on north-facing fences, under trees and just above the ground, where splashback and little sun meet. On Ipe it stays on the surface. The wood will not rot from it, but the fence looks grubby and feels slimy.

Yes, with care. Use a flat fan nozzle, keep at least 30 cm away and work along the grain. A rotating turbo nozzle or a jet held too close roughens the fibres, and rough timber gets dirty again faster.
Grey and green are two different things. Green is algae you wash off. Grey is the natural silver patina Ipe gets from sunlight. It does no harm and the fence lasts just as long. If you want the warm brown colour back, a wood reviver or deck brightener removes the grey top layer.
Ipe does not need oil to last 25+ years. Oil is still good advice if you want to clean less often. Think of it as wax on a car: dirt and water stick less, and the wood stays more stable, with fewer hairline cracks in very wet or hot weather. Apply a hardwood oil thinly to a clean, dry fence.
Cleaning a deck works much the same way. See our full guide to hardwood decking maintenance.
Damp and shade. Algae grows where timber stays wet, such as on the north side, under trees and near the ground.
Twice a year is enough for most gardens. A shady spot may need it more often.
No. Ipe is durability class 1 and does not rot from it. It is a matter of looks and grip.
We advise against it. Bleach damages the wood fibres and harms nearby plants.
Looking for a fence that needs very little care? Browse our Ipe fences.
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